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07 avril 2008
Palais des Beaux Arts de Lille et Piscine de Roubaix
J'y connais rien au Nord-Pas-de-Calais, toujours est-il que je me doutais bien que l'intérêt de cette région ne se résumait pas à ce que nous montre des films comme "Bienvenue chez les ch'tis" et qu'il y avait quelques sorties culturelles intéressantes à faire là -bas. Après les musées de Clermont-Ferrand il y a deux semaines, j'ai donc profité de mon petit tour de France du week-end pour visiter deux lieus culturels importants du Nord-Pas-de-Calais : le Palais des Beaux Arts de Lille et la Piscine de Roubaix.
Le Palais des Beaux Arts de Lille, considéré comme le deuxième musée de France, se découpe en trois niveaux : le département des peintures au premier étage, les sculptures et céramiques au rez-de-chaussée et enfin, en gros, les antiquités et quelques objets d'art européens datant aux alentours du XVe siècle au sous-sol. Pour ce qui est du département des peintures, ces dernières datent d'entre le XVIIe et le XIXe siècle et font honneur, en bonne partie, aux peintres flamands et hollandais tels que Jacob Jordaens ou Pierre Paul Rubens pour les plus représentés. Il y avait aussi une partie consacrée à des peintres espagnols mais elle était fermée parce qu'il y a bientôt une exposition consacrée à Francisco de Goya qui doit se tenir dans ce musée donc je suppose qu'ils étaient en pleine phase de réaménagement de la salle en question. Bref, le département des peintures est bien fourni et il y a vraiment de très beaux tableaux à voir, le seul problème est que la luminosité à cet étage est assez pourrie! Pourtant le temps dehors était relativement ensoleillé mais il fallait parfois se coller le nez à certaines peintures ou se reculer de 15 mètres pour les voir correctement. Sans compter que la configuration de l'étage est assez tristounette mais bon, ça n'empêche pas encore une fois qu'il y avait pas mal d'oeuvres à admirer. Je passe rapidement sur l'étage des céramiques qui ne m'intéressait pas des masses vu que j'avais plus l'impression de visiter le buffet de ma grand-mère qu'autre chose. Et les sculptures à cet étage ne m'ont pas particulièrement marquées. Par contre le sous-sol avec les antiquités et les objets du XVe-XVIe siècle provenant de l'Empire Germanique, des anciens Pays-Bas, de la France, d'Italie, d'Espagne, etc... était pour moi la partie la plus intéressante du musée avec, entre autres, de magnifiques huiles et sculptures en bois. Mais il n'y avait pas que des antiquités là -dessous mais également une salle consacrée aux plans-reliefs qui sont de grandes maquettes de villes du Nord de la France, de Belgique et des Pays-Bas, à l'échelle 1/600ème, réalisées à partir de la fin du XVIIème siècle. Ainsi, le plus vieux plan-relief est celui de Calais, réalisé en 1691, et le plus récent est celui de Avesnes réalisé vers 1824. Ces maquettes sont vraiment impressionnantes sachant qu'elles ont été faites minutieusement à la main et constituent un véritable trésor pour ceux qui rêvent de voir à quoi ressemblait leur ville il y a 300 ans. En somme, le Palais des Beaux Arts de Lille est un musée plutôt intéressant à visiter même si j'avoue que je m'attendais à plus de choses venant du deuxième musée de France.
Le lendemain je suis allé dans un musée à l'architecture très originale : le Musée d'Art et d'Industrie de la ville de Roubaix, plus connu sous le nom de la Piscine de Roubaix. En effet, ce musée qui existe depuis 2001 est implanté sur le site de l'ancienne piscine municipale qui a été construite dans un style art déco de 1927 à 1932 et qui a été fermée et laissée à l'abandon à partir de 1985. Au lieu de tout casser et de reconstruire entièrement le bâtiment, l'architecte du musée a gardé l'aspect de l'ancienne piscine. Ainsi, les murs sont faits en carrelage de piscine, il reste quelques cabines de douche dans lesquelles sont entreposées des oeuvres, il y a un grand bassin dans la salle principale autour duquel on peut admirer des sculptures, etc... Même s'il est peu profond, ce bassin est continuellement rempli d'eau donc attention à ne pas tomber dedans en voulant se reculer pour admirer une oeuvre! Parfois étaient diffusés dans des hauts-parleurs des cris d'enfants se baignant dans la piscine, il manquait juste l'odeur du chlore pour être vraiment dans l'ambiance! Bref, rien que pour le lieu, ce musée vaut absolument le coup d'oeil. Et niveau contenu, il y a vraiment de quoi visiter : j'y ai bien passé 1h30 et encore, c'est parce que je n'ai visité que superficiellement certaines parties du musée étant donné que je suis arrivé un peu tard et que le musée devait fermer. Au rez-de-chaussée, la plupart des oeuvres (peintures, sculptures, photographies, ...) datent du XXème siècle. Du coup, pour les sculptures en grès ça faisait un peu trop "propre" alors que j'aime bien les sculptures marquées par le temps et pour certaines c'est limite si on ne pouvait pas se voir dedans. Les sculptures qui m'ont vraiment impressionné sont celles faites en bronze, il y a souvent un soucis du détail assez admirable. Quant aux peintures, ça changeait des vieilles peintures du XVIIème ou XVIIIème siècle que j'ai eu l'habitude de contempler ces derniers temps avec des thèmes un peu plus "modernes" même si on est (heureusement pour moi) loin de l'art moderne. En tout cas, un artiste que j'ai adoré est Rémy Cogghe dont les peintures sont quasiment des photographies en couleur et c'est le genre de peinture que j'apprécie personnellement. Sinon, il y avait même une peinture de Robert De Niro Senior... sisi, c'est bien le papa du célèbre acteur américain lequel était d'ailleurs venu lui-même inaugurer l'exposition en l'honneur de son paternel à la Piscine de Roubaix en 2005. A part ça, on est quand même au Musée d'Art et d'Industrie et ici qui dit industrie dit textile. On a donc à l'étage une grande partie consacrée à ce milieu avec des vêtements et des centaine de registres répertoriant les différents tissus produits dans la région depuis des siècles. Bref, ce ne sont là que quelques exemples des nombreuses choses qu'on pouvait voir dans ce musée. Pour finir, il y avait une exposition nommée "Le zoo d'Orsay" qui, comme son nom l'indique, présentait des sculptures et des tableaux sur les animaux provenant du Musée d'Orsay. Bon, ce n'était pas bien extraordinaire pour le prix que ça coûtait (8€ en plein tarif) vu qu'il faut avouer que le thème était plutôt gnan-gnan mais ça peut être une bonne occasion d'emmener ses enfants au musée.
J'y connais toujours rien mais en tout cas une chose est sûre, dans le Nord, il n'y a pas que de la bière et Dany Boon.
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